Hiking Dude Blog
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The Seven Devils mountains on the western edge of Idaho butt up to the nation's deepest canyon, Hells Canyon. The wilderness here is dry, rugged, remote, and difficult. It's also extremely beautiful. My family lived near here on the forest service ranger station in Riggins, Idaho, almost 60 years ago.
My brother decided it would be fun to drive from the midwest for hiking and fishing in the high alpine lakes cradled in the bowls between the Seven Devils summits with hospitable names such as He Devil, She Devil, Devil's Throne, the Ogre, and the Goblin. Silly me, I agreed.
About 2.5 years ago, I had to cancel a planned adventure, but this Seven Devils trek turned into the most discombobulated expedition for me so far. It was still an enjoyable trip, but nothing like we had planned.
After driving nearly 2 days, we reached the Windy Saddle trailhead into the Seven Devils at about 4pm. 'We' being my brother (Ed), his adult son (Kyle), and myself. We were to meet a college friend (Scott) and his adult son (Andrew) to start our hike. Scott met us there, but his son had been delayed and would reach the trailhead later and hike in to catch up with us. So, at 5pm under a still blazing sun with temps around 80f, we started in.
The plan was to hike, fish, and camp for 5 days. We would use the Seven Devils Loop (trail #124) to access two main groups of lakes and see what we could catch on flies. That plan lasted almost an hour.
Less than a quarter mile into our hike, Scott decided that his ankle was not going to be up for the ruggedness of this hike. He had injured it a few months ago and thought it was good to go, but it was too bothersome. So, after a short discussion, he turned back to the trailhead.
Another hour of hiking found us still under a mile from the trailhead. The thin air at ~7600 feet, arid air, and temperature were bothering my brother. We were making progress, but it was rough. After a few rests and starts, he decided it would be best to turn back also. That was fine with me since fishing on some Idaho rivers would be fun, too. But, Kyle had really wanted to do some hiking and, between the two of them, convinced me to continue with Kyle. So, now we were down to 2 with possibly a 3rd finding us later.
Now, Kyle and I had to reach a place to camp with water before it got dark around 9:45pm. That gave us 3 hours to go about 3 miles, so it shouldn't be a problem. As we hiked, a helicoptor flew around and landed a couple times off in the distance at a lookout tower. We didn't know what they were doing.
When we finished our first long uphill section, we had this great view out over the Hells Canyon to the west. A 1,200 foot downhill section on scree and shale would get us to the forest and our campsite by Sheep Creek.
As soon as we turned east and started down, we saw why the helicoptor was around. Smoke was rising from the rocky mountains ahead and above us. Should we continue forward or retreat from the fire? It was over a mile away, not very large, and with what seemed to be very little around to burn. So, we continued down to camp, watching the helicoptor fly circles over the smoke while it scooped water from a lake and dumped it on the fire. This went on for almost two hours.
Well, we reached our campsite on the west fork of Sheep Creek just below Devils Tooth around 8:30 and it was great. A beautiful, but noisy, waterfall and plenty of room. Tents up, dinner eaten, and we hit the hay with plans to continue up to the lakes to fish tomorrow.
Andrew did not show up as had been the plan. Kyle and his dad each had a Zoleo communication device. These wound up being great assets, allowing text messages to keep each other up to date. It turns out that Ed had texted Scott so he waited at the trailhead while Ed hiked out. Andrew got to the trailhead and hiked in to meet Ed and make sure he got out ok. Then, all of them headed down to Riggins to camp along the Salmon River.
We started our second day by hiking up more scree towards the first set of lakes. No problems with Kyle navigating and my navigation app deciding to die. As we reached a flat, open, almost desert area after a long climb, an airplane could be seen circling above us. Hiking on, we watched the plane drop pairs of smoke jumpers - 8 people in all. That was followed with 3 low-elevation passes right over us to drop supplies on a hill just ahead. It was all very interesting, but we wondered just how this fire was doing.
We reached Basin Lake with a great well-used camping area. We set up our tents and got day packs to hike up a few hundred feet in elevation to Sheep Lake, or until we ran into the fire. Well, the fire was closer.
At Gem Lake, we ran into a firefighter that had just landed and was hiking to the fire. He was chill and said we could just go on hiking. So, we did.
But, very soon after that, we ran into smoke rising on both sides of the trail. So, we scrambled up some rocks to see what was above and still stay away from the fire - which was not very large.
We stopped to watch another firefighter that was busy knocking down burning spots, and decided that it would be a better idea to head back down. The firefighter noticed us and helped us with that decision. :-) On the way down, we met another firefighter that said we'd be fine walking up around the fire, but we continued down.
We would not get to fish in Sheep or Gem lakes, and the wind was whipping around so we weren't even sure if we'd be able to stay where we were at Basin lake. So, we decided to change plans again. We packed up our camp and headed farther east to the next set of lakes. We hadn't planned on it, but now we would hike the entire loop around the Seven Devils and come out a day early.
Our final mishap happened about an hour later. A sharp left turn near Lily Pad lake is required to take the Seven Devils Loop. We wound up taking a trail towards Bernard Lakes which includes a 350 foot downhill. Once that was figured out, we retreated back uphill to the intersection where the mistake was made. At this point, it was getting late in the afternoon, our frustration level was pretty high, and we were hot and tired - a bad time to make any decisions, but we did. We decided to just head back.
So, after a long day of hiking, we camped right back at the same spot from the night before. It was definitely a challenging, interesting day. The next morning, we were up early to beat the heat and climbed the big hill out. We had some clouds, breeze, and plenty of water so it wasn't too bad.
The Zoleo texting meant Ed was waiting for us at the trailhead so it was simple to pile in and head down to do some fishing the next few days on the Clearwater, Selway, and Lochas rivers. It wasn't the trek we had planned, but it was a good time.
Hike On!
Posted: 07/20/2024
Being warm year-round, Costa Rica has an abundant assortment of animals, birds, insects, reptiles, and all sorts of wildlife. I was expecting to see sign of more mammals, but monkeys were the only abundant animal around. We did see a sloth in the wild, and a coatamundi, plus a few snakes and reptiles.
On the other hand, birds and butterflies were abundant! So were insects.
Here is a sample of the fauna along the trail.
Posted: 01/16/2024
Just in time for Christmas for you or that hiker you know!
I published SHT4U2NO - 150 Super Hiking Tips For You To Know this summer. Tips and advice from my thousands of miles and hundreds of nights spent on long trails. It includes examples of when I used tips on my treks.
Last month, I finally published Trail Tales #1 - seven fictional short stories for young readers, inspired by my Arizona Trail thru-hike. It took a few years, but it's done!
The stories feature Scout, a boy that can talk to animals, and how he helps animals in need while demonstrating good outdoor ethics.
And, I just published Trail Tales #2 - the second book in the Trail Tales series, this one based on the Superior Hiking Trail. This coming year, I will finish the next two books and the series is scheduled to have 10 books in all.
Click a book title for purchasing.Hike On!
Posted: 11/08/2023
Hey, go to early church on Sunday so you can visit with us about our Camino de Costa Rica hike in Room 102 of Hanson Hall on U of Minnesota campus at 11am. See Midwest Mountaineering's Expo site for details.
Are you busy on Sunday, April 30 at 11am?
If not, join us in room 102 of Hanson Hall on U of Minnesota campus for the first presentation in our world tour about our successful 2023 Camino de Costa Rica hike.
If nothing else, you'll get a sticker, and maybe a free copy of my latest book.
See Expo site for details.
There are a lot of other interesting 1-hour presentations on Saturday and Sunday. After our talk you could hang around and learn about Machu Pichu, Tanzania, Te Araroa, Mt. Assiniboine, and the Wabakami wilderness.
Hike On!
Posted: 04/18/2023
On my hike across Costa Rica, there was never a lack of lush plant life. From the warm, humid coastlands over the cooler mountain ranges, thick forest and jungle could be found everywhere except where bananas, pineapples, coffee, and palm trees had been planted. There were many exotic plants which I had not seen before and a rainbow of colors in the flowers.
Here is a sample of the exotic plants and flowers from along the trail.
(I didn't notice the small insect until preparing these photos :-) )
Posted: 04/07/2023
We did stop at a store for fresh coconut water - a straw poked in a hole in the coconut! That was refreshing.
Reaching the end of the trail around 1:30 at the ocean in Quepos was sudden and fulfilling. With no more land to walk on, we could take our time the rest of the day relaxing and enjoying our success.
You can see photos on Instagram
Posted: 01/29/2023
Our hike started up on a ridgeline with swallow-tailed kites riding the wind above us. At about 8am, we got our first view of the Pacific Ocean 13 days after walking away from the Caribbean Sea!
Once we began the long descent towards the coast, the humidity skyrocketed. Low, stifling clouds and warmth from the sun made a great sauna experience. Our support vehicle stopping with cold drinks and snacks occasionally made it much more bearable.
Most of our hike was on remote dirt roads through lush rain forest but 27km of mostly steep descents wow on legs that had been hiking for 12 days already.
Lunch was at a very remote home of a man that left the city life to subside off the land. The view from his lofty shelter was wonderful. The home grown vegetable meal was also delicious. After lunch, he led us on a faint jungle trail back to the main route. In this thick jungle, the humidity was obvious and did not let up until the end of the day.
With occasional glimpses of the coast to motivate us, we hiked on eventually reaching a most wonderful destination for the night.
Rudy has created a bird sanctuary to conserve lands and education people. It is over 100 acres of land set aside from encroachment and open to visitors to learn about pretty much all things conservation-minded in Costa Rica. He is extremely passionate and had a great small staff to provide a memorable experience. And, they have the best hot shower that over had on the past 2 weeks!
After a nice chat about conversation and a most wonderful chicken dinner, it has cooled down considerably and is now finally pleasant. But, honestly, I believe today was probably the most humid hike I've ever done. The jungle was alive with the sounds of cicadas and birds at times, and this is what I was expecting when contemplating a hike across Costa Rica. I'm just glad every day was not like this.
As I'm writing this before bed, I have huge cicadas flying about and landing on me. Nature everywhere!
You can see our progress at Hikers Social
Posted: 01/28/2023
We had great, cool weather most of the day with clouds billowing all around us but no rain. The wind was very strong at points.
Learning how the coffee is picked, measured, transported, and processed was interesting. Seeing actual workers laboring in the sun on the steep hillsides was sobering.
Our hike ended with a nice lunch at a home on a mountain with views far out over the valley. From there, a shuttle took us to our lodging in a different town. Tonight, it is a private house being rented out.
I don't think I'll ever really figure out how to get a hot shower in Costa Rica. The electric heater in the showerhead is a great idea but seems impossible for me to regulate.
You can see our progress at Hikers Social and pictures on Instagram
Posted: 01/26/2023
Part of this section is walking along one of the most busy roadways in the country. To eliminate most of that stressful part, we had an additional guide join us to lead us over a new dirt road that only he knows about. This new part was so steep that my heels did not touch the ground, only the balls of my feet.
It appears there are no rules, or even guidelines, for road construction in Costa Rica. They are narrow, steep, rough, and windy. So, even though much of this Camino is on road, they are often more like wide trails.
But, a good chunk of today's 30km hike was along a paved road with very little shoulder. Worst part of the trek so far with trucks roaring past just inches away. There are so many pedestrians that it seems vehicles expect them and we had no close calls.
Being a long hike, most of us were tired out by the end of our walk. About a third of our group had complaints of gastrointestinal problems or leg pains. Everyone completed our walk and I hope they are feeling better in the morning.
We are stayng at a hotel with separate cabins in a town. It's is nice and quiet so I hope to have a better sleep than last night.
Food continues to be tasty and plentiful. The weather this afternoon was ominous with rolling thunder during our hike but only a few sprinkles of rain before clearing out in the evening.
You can see our progress at Hikers Social
Posted: 01/25/2023
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All Comments:
Feb 13, 2020 - Jason Berklund
Feb 13, 2020 - Hiking Dude
Getting to the northern terminus is expensive (in my mind). If you can schedule correctly, Arrowhead Transit is cheapest to Grand Marais, but then Harriet Quarles is the only shuttle I know of. You might find a good ol' boy in Grand Marais willing to drive you the 35 miles to the end for a few $$$.
It's a 3 hour drive from Duluth - that's 6 hours and 300 miles round-trip. Maybe your friend would like to drive up the north shore for a day.
Feb 04, 2024 - John
May 02, 2024 - Zeke Mead
May 03, 2024 - Hiking Dude
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