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09/02/2013
Labor Day
I walked 54194 steps on the trail today.
I traveled about 24.5 miles today.
A stupendous day all around! From a fun ferryboat ride to camping in a generous person's yard, you couldn't ask for more of an adventure.
This pic is a view down the steep rocks on the East Bluffs at Devil's Lake. Dozens and dozens of people were going up and down them, from tiny children to old folks - amazing!
After hiking out of D.L., we reached Parphy's Glen where there was to be water. Oops! No water since the well was broken. We were given refreshments by a wonderful family eating there and then hiked on to find a place to camp. In a homestead frontyard, a woman returned our greeting and we asked for water. She shared her ice cold well water with us and then her husband let us set up our tents out back. It's now dropping to 50 degrees and may get a bit chilly by morning. On to Portage tomorrow.
Devils Lake
We made it around the big Devil's )ake horseshoe - a 10-mile loop that winds up nearly where we started! But, it was a beautiful area with great cliffs and TONS of people this Labor Day.
Now, we're hiking on out of the park towards Portage.
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Posted: 09/02/2013
Posted: 09/02/2013
Merrimac Ferry
Up early and hiking by first light. Found a nice spot to sleep which as good since the specified camping area was ridiculously sloped when we reached it this morning.
Crossing on the Merrimac Ferry was fun! Too early for any snacks but the public restroom on the north side had hot water and soap so we washed up.
The weather is practically perfect and we're moving right along. We've met a couple out birding, a female trail runner, and a couple going biking. Now, it's on to th Devil's Lake area.
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Posted: 09/02/2013
Posted: 09/02/2013
09/01/2013
Gibraltar Rock
I walked 24378 steps on the trail today.
I traveled about 11 miles today.
Picking up right where we left off at the Lodi Marsh, we started hiking at 5pm today. The hike into Lodi was great! The trail was well maintained, the temperature was comfortable and the humidity was much lower. It felt wonderful to be back on the trail again, strolling over the miles.
In Lodi, we met a family having ice cream and talked about the IAT with them a bit. Then, we met the owners of a beautiful house that we were admiring right on the trail through town. They've made it into a B&B and they were very friendly folks asking us if we needed anything. We also met a past mayor of town who offered directions though we were fine with our maps.
You probably figured out all this chatting took up some time. :-). Leaving Lodi, the breeze, setting sun, and fresh air were perfect for walking more miles. We completed a nondescript section and then roadwalked around Gibraltar Rock which is shown in this photo. We hiked on until about 9pm - well after dark - to our camping spot under some nice pine and walnut trees.
The crickets and fireflys are out and it's time to rest for another day. Tomorrow, we ride the ferry!
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Posted: 09/01/2013
Posted: 09/01/2013
Back On Trail
Leaving for the trailhead in an hour. Anxious to get moving again and looking forward to the 20 degree drop in temperature and new terrain to cover.
We picked up more supplies for the next month and that's one of the best parts of long hikes - I get to eat pretty much anything I want and as much of it as I can hold. :-)
You might notice that some of this is not healthy food you'd want your family eating every day, but on the trail we're trying to get lots of calories in a light load. I do have fish, cheese, crackers, raisins, and noodles besides all these snacks.
Camera and cellphone are charged. Maps are ready. Clothes are washed. Ready to go.
I sure hope we run into some scouts or hikers out on the trail during the next week or so. That would be a fun surprise!
Hike On
08/29/2013
The Vortex
Folks talk about getting caught in the town vortex when hiking long trails. It happens when a hiker stops in a town for a rest, enjoys the food, enjoys the bed, stays another day, and suddenly realizes he's lost a week of hiking!
Well, you could say that has happened to me this past week. A two-day break was followed by very hot and humid weather that would be miserable, slow miles. That weather lasted longer than expected. Then, arranging travel back to the trail where we stopped hiking worked out to add a couple more days. This wasn't what we had planned, but I think it was the right thing to do for health and enjoyment of the adventure. So, it looks like the hike will resume on Sunday.
I'm fully rested, no blisters, no leg pain, no sunburn, full stomache, and hair freshly cut - ready to do the last 650 miles of the trail. We've purchased food for the next leg of trail, fixed and cleaned gear, and made a rough schedule.
As it turns out, this break fits nicely into my mental image of the Ice Age Trail. The first part was heading south roughly along the Lake Michigan shore, through small towns and the Kettle Moraine. The next part was a U-shaped loop across the bottom of Wisconsin through farmland and more towns.
The next part has us heading nearly straight north through the center of the state, transitioning from towns and farmland to the north woods. Once we reach Antigo, the last part of the trail aims West, traversing the forested wild areas of northern Wisconsin where it will be cooler and more remote.
I'm not sure if that's what we'll actually experience, but that's the picture I have in my head.
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Posted: 08/29/2013
Posted: 08/29/2013
08/21/2013
Too Hot
It's good to have plans and it's good to keep them flexible.
We left Cross Plains early with the plan to shuttle our vehicle to Portage and reach it in 3 days. The temperature was 71 degrees at 6:15am.
Matt, of the IATA staff, met us on our roadwalk around 8am after we'd put in about 7 miles. He shuttled us to Portage and back to the trail. We hiked on as the temperature rose. Our plan was to reach Lodi.
We received word that a storm might build in the evening and the temperature rose. It was now mid-day and about 90 degrees. We drank all our water and received more from a generous farmer along the road. You could tell by the look on his face that he thought we were idiots for walking down the road in the middle of such a hot day - we agreed with him.
Our camping options in Lodi did not pan out so it looked like we might be stealth camping with a storm coming - not something we were looking forward to. So, my mom picked us up at the Lodi Marsh trail start and we arrived in West Bend for a break tonight. We'll have a few zero days in which I'm catching up on blogging, resting our feet, and watching the Green Bay vs. Seattle football game. We're hoping for a general drop in temps and humidity, but it currently looks like Monday is back up near record highs. We'll see and keep things flexible.
We left Cross Plains early with the plan to shuttle our vehicle to Portage and reach it in 3 days. The temperature was 71 degrees at 6:15am.
Matt, of the IATA staff, met us on our roadwalk around 8am after we'd put in about 7 miles. He shuttled us to Portage and back to the trail. We hiked on as the temperature rose. Our plan was to reach Lodi.
We received word that a storm might build in the evening and the temperature rose. It was now mid-day and about 90 degrees. We drank all our water and received more from a generous farmer along the road. You could tell by the look on his face that he thought we were idiots for walking down the road in the middle of such a hot day - we agreed with him.
Our camping options in Lodi did not pan out so it looked like we might be stealth camping with a storm coming - not something we were looking forward to. So, my mom picked us up at the Lodi Marsh trail start and we arrived in West Bend for a break tonight. We'll have a few zero days in which I'm catching up on blogging, resting our feet, and watching the Green Bay vs. Seattle football game. We're hoping for a general drop in temps and humidity, but it currently looks like Monday is back up near record highs. We'll see and keep things flexible.
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Posted: 08/21/2013
Posted: 08/21/2013
08/20/2013
IATA HQ
We reached the Ice Age Trail Alliance headquarters in Cross Plains today. It took us almost 12 hours, starting at 5:00am and arriving just before closing. It was an extremely hot day and tomorrow is supposed to be even worse.
We had met Matt on our long roadwalk to Albany two days ago and he was very helpful in staying late and arranging to shuttle our vehicle tomorrow. We got to shower and wash clothes in the IATA basement and then eat at Kurt's bar/grill. I had gyros and Papa Bear had pizza - both were good and reasonably priced.
After buying food at Piggly Wiggly, we hiked 1.5 more miles in the dark up to an IATA property where we camped.
Earlier in the day, we passed through Verona. At a Kwik Trip truck stop, we stopped and bought stuff for breakfast - pulled pork sandwiches and doughnuts! The guys at Dot's Tavern in Basco last night said we should contact the police for help in retrieving my cellphone. We had the license plate of the car from two photos that Papa Bear had taken, so we were hoping to find the Verona police station and try our luck.
As we were sitting in the Kwik Trip, in walked a Verona police officer. We explained what had happened, he took lots of info, and went back to his car. Quite awhile later, he returned. He had identified the owners, contacted them, and they had searched the car - no phone found. He left them Papa Bear's number but that was all he could do. As soon as we thanked him for his help and he left, Papa Bear's phone rang - they had found the phone upon a more thorough search and would be sending it to my folks' address! Happy Day.
We had met Matt on our long roadwalk to Albany two days ago and he was very helpful in staying late and arranging to shuttle our vehicle tomorrow. We got to shower and wash clothes in the IATA basement and then eat at Kurt's bar/grill. I had gyros and Papa Bear had pizza - both were good and reasonably priced.
After buying food at Piggly Wiggly, we hiked 1.5 more miles in the dark up to an IATA property where we camped.
Earlier in the day, we passed through Verona. At a Kwik Trip truck stop, we stopped and bought stuff for breakfast - pulled pork sandwiches and doughnuts! The guys at Dot's Tavern in Basco last night said we should contact the police for help in retrieving my cellphone. We had the license plate of the car from two photos that Papa Bear had taken, so we were hoping to find the Verona police station and try our luck.
As we were sitting in the Kwik Trip, in walked a Verona police officer. We explained what had happened, he took lots of info, and went back to his car. Quite awhile later, he returned. He had identified the owners, contacted them, and they had searched the car - no phone found. He left them Papa Bear's number but that was all he could do. As soon as we thanked him for his help and he left, Papa Bear's phone rang - they had found the phone upon a more thorough search and would be sending it to my folks' address! Happy Day.
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Posted: 08/20/2013
Posted: 08/20/2013
08/19/2013
Brewery Tour
One spot along the Ice Age Trail that I really hoped to visit was the New Glarus brewery in New Glarus. Today's hike would take us past it, but it is 2.5 miles off the trail. And, it doesn't open until 10am but Monticello is only a few miles south.
All this meant that we left our camping spot early, but walked only about a mile to 'downtown' Monticello where we found the M&M's restaurant and had a filling bacon, ham, and toast breakfast. We had a leisurely time since it made no sense getting to the brewery early. At the restaurant, I asked the cook if I could charge my camera while we waited. He said that would be fine and took my charger to plug it in behind the counter. As soon as it touched the socket, there was a big, orange flash and 'pop'. His credit card reader, phone, and other electronics were down. We figured he might have had moisture or grease on his fingers that shorted the socket. My camera wasn't attached yet and the charger was fine so I plugged it into a different socket just fine. Excitement!
The brewery was way off trail, but we reached it just before 10am, went on the short self-guided tour, sampled their six beers, then needed to get back on the trail. Fortunately, Papa Bear met Keith and Isaac and they gave us a lift back to where we had left the trail so we could continue our hike. We also chatted with a couple that were on a motorcycle tour from Nebraska.
The hike all day was hot, humid, and buggy - good job bug suits! The heat and humidity are continuing to rise, contrary to my hope that they'd be slowly tapering off as August waned.
Continuing down the trail, we figured we might need to camp along the trail this night until we found 'Basco' written on the map. Basco is a town consisting, as far as I can tell, of three buildings. One of those buildings is a farmhouse under which a bar has been excavated and named Dot's Tavern. The entrance is a door on the side of the house, leading down steep steps to another door. Pushing hard on this door opens into a subterranean tavern with a 6 foot ceiling. This was my first basement bar experience - it was very interesting. A handful of locals were there on a Monday evening and the bartender's name was 'Gator' - the same name as a bartender we met way back in Ellisville.
The folks worked hard to figure out a place for us to stay and we finally wound up camping across the street in a vacant grassy area so it worked out just fine.
All this meant that we left our camping spot early, but walked only about a mile to 'downtown' Monticello where we found the M&M's restaurant and had a filling bacon, ham, and toast breakfast. We had a leisurely time since it made no sense getting to the brewery early. At the restaurant, I asked the cook if I could charge my camera while we waited. He said that would be fine and took my charger to plug it in behind the counter. As soon as it touched the socket, there was a big, orange flash and 'pop'. His credit card reader, phone, and other electronics were down. We figured he might have had moisture or grease on his fingers that shorted the socket. My camera wasn't attached yet and the charger was fine so I plugged it into a different socket just fine. Excitement!
The brewery was way off trail, but we reached it just before 10am, went on the short self-guided tour, sampled their six beers, then needed to get back on the trail. Fortunately, Papa Bear met Keith and Isaac and they gave us a lift back to where we had left the trail so we could continue our hike. We also chatted with a couple that were on a motorcycle tour from Nebraska.
The hike all day was hot, humid, and buggy - good job bug suits! The heat and humidity are continuing to rise, contrary to my hope that they'd be slowly tapering off as August waned.
Continuing down the trail, we figured we might need to camp along the trail this night until we found 'Basco' written on the map. Basco is a town consisting, as far as I can tell, of three buildings. One of those buildings is a farmhouse under which a bar has been excavated and named Dot's Tavern. The entrance is a door on the side of the house, leading down steep steps to another door. Pushing hard on this door opens into a subterranean tavern with a 6 foot ceiling. This was my first basement bar experience - it was very interesting. A handful of locals were there on a Monday evening and the bartender's name was 'Gator' - the same name as a bartender we met way back in Ellisville.
The folks worked hard to figure out a place for us to stay and we finally wound up camping across the street in a vacant grassy area so it worked out just fine.
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Posted: 08/19/2013
Posted: 08/19/2013
08/18/2013
$1000
The great food, friendship, and rest we received in Janesville was rejuvenating. It allowed us to have our longest day yet, making it all the way to Monticello which was farther than hoped.
After a short time meandering through the beautiful arboretum and outdoor learning areas by Janesville, we walked County Road A straight west to Albany. As far as trail goes, it certainly was the most boring portion so far with about 17 miles of straight road. But, the views were always changing and we still met some fun folks along the way.
Around 8:55am, we passed a Lutheran country church (on Church Road) and stopped for a break from the sun at a picnic table under a tree. They were just gathering for service, but no one said 'Hi'.
At about 11:00am, we got to the Magnolia Advent Church, six miles away and still out in the country. As we went to sit on the Magnolia town hall steps in the shade across the street, a man came out the church doors and spotted us. He said 'Hi' and said he had seen us down the road a couple hours ago and we were making good time. He also let me come in and refill my water bottles, so we chatted a little about our hike. On my way out, a lady smiled and said, 'God bless you'.
When we reached Albany in the high heat of the afternoon, we needed a rest. On this trek through Wisconsin, I've discovered that taverns are frequent and friendly, and good places to rest and refresh. We passed a woman in her yard when we entered Albany and she recommended 'the Center' as a nice place to get a cool drink.
When we walked in the door, all 40+ heads turned to stare at us from the dark gloom as our eyes tried to adjust. The place was packed at 2pm! We were expecting to be the only ones there. As it turns out, many taverns have contests, drawings, games, and such during slow times (like Sunday afternoon) and this place had a drawing each month.
Being strangers, we were considered impartial so I was told to come up behind the bar and pull a numbered chip out of a bucket. I pulled #45 - 44 groans of defeat and one scream of excitement. Tammy had just won $1000 dollars. We were best friends now! :-) But, I sat with my back to the wall, just in case anyone was a sore loser.
After resting in Albany, we continued on and hiked until sunset, reaching the tiny village of Monticello. Ann and Karl were out for their evening stroll and, after hearing of our trip, invited us to camp in their yard. Ann, like so many mothers, insisted on food, so she made us hamburgers, grapes, clementines, and milk. We slept very well after that.
Also, our bug suits again proved their value during our evening walk.
After a short time meandering through the beautiful arboretum and outdoor learning areas by Janesville, we walked County Road A straight west to Albany. As far as trail goes, it certainly was the most boring portion so far with about 17 miles of straight road. But, the views were always changing and we still met some fun folks along the way.
Around 8:55am, we passed a Lutheran country church (on Church Road) and stopped for a break from the sun at a picnic table under a tree. They were just gathering for service, but no one said 'Hi'.
At about 11:00am, we got to the Magnolia Advent Church, six miles away and still out in the country. As we went to sit on the Magnolia town hall steps in the shade across the street, a man came out the church doors and spotted us. He said 'Hi' and said he had seen us down the road a couple hours ago and we were making good time. He also let me come in and refill my water bottles, so we chatted a little about our hike. On my way out, a lady smiled and said, 'God bless you'.
When we reached Albany in the high heat of the afternoon, we needed a rest. On this trek through Wisconsin, I've discovered that taverns are frequent and friendly, and good places to rest and refresh. We passed a woman in her yard when we entered Albany and she recommended 'the Center' as a nice place to get a cool drink.
When we walked in the door, all 40+ heads turned to stare at us from the dark gloom as our eyes tried to adjust. The place was packed at 2pm! We were expecting to be the only ones there. As it turns out, many taverns have contests, drawings, games, and such during slow times (like Sunday afternoon) and this place had a drawing each month.
Being strangers, we were considered impartial so I was told to come up behind the bar and pull a numbered chip out of a bucket. I pulled #45 - 44 groans of defeat and one scream of excitement. Tammy had just won $1000 dollars. We were best friends now! :-) But, I sat with my back to the wall, just in case anyone was a sore loser.
After resting in Albany, we continued on and hiked until sunset, reaching the tiny village of Monticello. Ann and Karl were out for their evening stroll and, after hearing of our trip, invited us to camp in their yard. Ann, like so many mothers, insisted on food, so she made us hamburgers, grapes, clementines, and milk. We slept very well after that.
Also, our bug suits again proved their value during our evening walk.
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Posted: 08/18/2013
Posted: 08/18/2013
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All Comments:
Feb 13, 2020 - Jason Berklund
Hey hiking dude I have several questions planning my first north to south trip
from 270 all the way down. I kind a know what to wear what to eat all that
important jive. I am in relatively good shape definitely Not concerned about
where in tear. 45 years old going with a 21-year-old nephew. My question is
I have friends in Duluth that I don’t want to burden with driving me what’s the
best way to get up to otter Lake Road that’s not gonna cost a crap ton. We
were thinking 15 miles a day. We were also thinking hammocks. Let me
know what you think please. I have read so much and look at so much and
heard so many opinions but You seem to be very realistic on your
comments. Thank you
Feb 13, 2020 - Hiking Dude
@Jason - Hammocks work fine - most campsites have lots of trees.
15MPD is realistic, and you'll probably do more than that many
days.
Getting to the northern terminus is expensive (in my mind). If you can schedule correctly, Arrowhead Transit is cheapest to Grand Marais, but then Harriet Quarles is the only shuttle I know of. You might find a good ol' boy in Grand Marais willing to drive you the 35 miles to the end for a few $$$.
It's a 3 hour drive from Duluth - that's 6 hours and 300 miles round-trip. Maybe your friend would like to drive up the north shore for a day.
Getting to the northern terminus is expensive (in my mind). If you can schedule correctly, Arrowhead Transit is cheapest to Grand Marais, but then Harriet Quarles is the only shuttle I know of. You might find a good ol' boy in Grand Marais willing to drive you the 35 miles to the end for a few $$$.
It's a 3 hour drive from Duluth - that's 6 hours and 300 miles round-trip. Maybe your friend would like to drive up the north shore for a day.
Feb 04, 2024 - John
Me and my fiance are going to Costa Rica for our honeymoon and we
are so excited!
May 02, 2024 - Zeke Mead
Has anyone cycled this Camiño? Sounds like the trail is a road
and if trucks are able to do it, maybe bikes too?
May 03, 2024 - Hiking Dude
@Zeke - Someone could certainly bike part of the Camino de Costa
Rica, but other parts are simple trail that would not be passable
by bike.
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