Hiking Dude Blog

September 1 - Climbing Ben Nevis (another guest post by Kelly since Hiking Dude has caught a cold and is feeling tired out)

Last night we stayed at the Glen Nevis campground. It was huge with large numbers of campers in camper vans, motor homes, huge tents and small tents. There were many amenities and we were able to wash and dry most of our clothes. There must have been lots of moisture in the air last night because our tent was filled with condensation this morning.

The campground reception folks were very gracious and allowed us to leave our big packs with them while we climbed Ben Nevis (10.5 miles round-trip). As we walked past the youth hostel, we once again saw our Belgium friend, Toya, waiting for her taxi. Based on our experience on this hike, I'm pretty sure we'll see her again in the future!

We decided to take the steeper shortcut for the first part of the hike instead of the longer, more gradual trail. We learned later that the locals call that route 'heart attack hill.' It was steep, but again our hill training paid off. The first part of the trail was made of stacked stones and was amazing. Farther up the trail it was mostly rock and gravel.

Also, farther up the trail it become very windy and much cooler. There were times when we were hiking straight into the wind. It was a challenging hike, and took us about three hours to hike to the top (1,345 meters). There were lots of falling down stone structures at the top. The hike down went well, but seemed to take just as long. We had to be cautious not to slip on the loose gravel and rocks (but we both did).

Hiking Dude counted just about 500 people on the trail with us today. When we got to the portion of trail with the stacked stones, we kind of ran down to save our knees from the pounding. When we got to the turn off to 'heart attack hill' we met and spent time visiting with an 84 year old man. It was interesting hearing his stories of hiking Ben Nevis and other places around the world. We retrieved our packs, ate dinner and walked to our B & B for the night. Tomorrow we take the train to Stirling.

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Climbing Ben Nevis was definitely the highlight of our trip so far, for me. It was a long, strenuous hike with every type of weather above freezing and wonderful different climate zones and terrain as we climbed higher and higher.

Our plan was to have a rest day in Scotland and then proceed to Geneva to start our Tour du Mont Blanc trek. Key word there is 'was', but I'll keep you in suspense a bit as we tell you about our 'between hikes' days. This is a collaboration post composed by the two of us since I've been struggling with a head cold the past few days.

September 2 - After climbing Ben Nevis on Sunday, we collected our packs from the campground office, ate fish and chips (again) at the campground restaurant, and walked another mile down the road to our B & B, The Brevins House. Vincent and Brenda offered us a lovely room filled with everything we needed - it was a great stopping place! I walked another 2 miles round trip to a grocery store to get orange juice and cold medicine before taking an awesome hot shower.

The next morning, our hosts cooked us a delicious breakfast of blueberry pancakes, cream & yogurt, toast and coffee. While we were eating, Vincent noticed that only one of my water bottles had been filled, so he filled the other one up for me. So kind!

We then walked to the original WHW endpoint, took a selfie, and headed to the bus stop. We were lucky to get on our bus to Stirling because it was pretty full and we didn't have tickets. It was fun to look out the windows and see some of the WHW trail and the many hikers progressing along the way - I counted over 80 in just a few short sections. While on the bus, we secured tickets for the next bus which would take us the rest of the way into Stirling.

It was another rainy day (of course), so we had a wet walk through town from the bus station. When we showed up at our next B & B, Castlecroft, we were a bit soggy. Laura allowed us to wait in her lovely sitting room and drink tea & coffee and eat cookies & shortbread until it was time to check in.

We spent the time trying to figure out how to avoid the rain for the next 2 1/2 weeks. As with all of our other hikes, the weather forecast for the Tour du Mt. Blanc route will be rainy for the next 10 days, and we JUST CAN'T! Actually, the weather forecast for most of Europe above Spain is pretty poor. With both of us on the Internet, Hiking Dude finally found that Lisbon, Portugal had great weather, and Portugal had many long hikes. So, we started considering making some dramatic changes.

September 3 - After a great rest in a very comfortable bed, Laura made us a wonderful breakfast and wished us well as we hiked away from Castlecroft.

We enjoyed our overcast but not raining morning exploring Stirling Castle. The weather for the next week in Scotland, now that we're leaving, of course is very nice. :-)

On our train to Edinburgh airport to catch our flight to Geneva, we continued to research and consider options. We could delay our TMB hike a couple days hoping the weather will improve, or just plow ahead, or call it quits and head home, or completely change our destination. It appears that we've come to a decision.

We are flying to Geneva tonight, as planned, and will arrive around midnight. But then we are flying on to Portugal for about 10 days! It truly will be improvisational hiking! Along the Atlantic Coast of Portugal is the Fisherman's Trail which is about the right length. It's pretty flat, so no majestic mountain views, but there's beaches, sunsets, and 75 degree highs. Most importantly, there's no rain in the forecast, but we might change that!

One thing that tipped the scales to Portugal happened in the Edinburgh airport. As we were waiting for our flight and contemplating choices, a young woman asked to sit by us. I asked her if she had had a long travel day and she had, but it wasn't over. After a stop in Bordeaux, she is flying to Portugal. We figured that was enough of a sign.

September 4 - After a plane delay due to thunderstorms in Geneva and a short midnight walk in drizzling rain, we finally reached our airport hotel around 1am. We checked the weather one last time and then bought the tickets to Lisbon.

We got a few short hours of sleep, a quick breakfast included in the hotel, shuttle rather than walk back to the airport, and we're on our way to Portugal! We hope to take a bus to Porto Covo and then a short hike to our first campground this evening.

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A bit more about Castlecroft. Laura is a gracious host who provides everything you could think of! Her B & B is beautiful, the views are amazing, and there are paths that take you right to Stirling Castle and into the town of Stirling. I highly recommend both B & Bs as places to stay while you are doing day trip explorations around Scotland.

September 4 - Lisbon is hot! At least compared to our last few weeks. We figured out the metro and got ourselves from the airport to a store for cooking gas and then on to the bus station to catch our 2 hour ride to the North end of the Fisherman's Trail in Porto Covo.

A very short walk to a campground in town, more like a semi-permanent trailer park, and our home for the night is set up. We're kind of in a little back alley behind some camper trailers but it's quiet and out of the way.

We decided to try the campground restaurant for dinner. Our cod dinner was huge and very tasty, with potatoes, bread, a bowl of olives, and wine. and that's about the only photo I took today.

Prices (at least for camping and meals) are much more reasonable than what we've seen the past few weeks in the North.

September 5 - Our first day on the Fisherman's Trail was wonderful! Blue sky, breeze, and dry air all day. Practically perfect weather.

We spent most of the seven hours that we hiked high on a plateau overlooking the ocean with a couple drops down to the sea to walk on the beach. There were also a couple miles in sparse forest away from the shore.

The trail itself had very little elevation but was tough much of the day. Deep, dry sand, like powdered sugar, made many miles very slow going, especially on the incline. Still, it was sooooo much better than mud in the rain! We traveled 12 miles to the next town South of Porto Covo, called Vila Nova de Milfontes.

We met other hikers from Germany, Australia, and Scotland, but we're the only ones camping so far. We didn't meet anyone at our campground tonight, but it's mostly car campers.

We started after 8am and stopped at a cafe place for a nice toasted ham and cheese sandwich around 10am. We took a short snack break later, but other than that just walked until we reached our destination.

Since the sun is bright and it's pretty warm, we're hoping to start a bit earlier tomorrow. But, that brings up other challenges.

After setting up our tent and taking showers, we wandered around the town looking for groceries and then dinner. Like other hot places, it seems many places shut down in the afternoon here. We did find some snacks for tomorrow, but we had to wait until 7pm for a restaurant to open. So, late dinners make early departures come quickly. We'll see how it goes.

Also, Kelly started feeling similar symptoms to my cold this afternoon. That might mean a miserable few days for her. We'll see.

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September 6 - Other than dogs, roosters, and garbage trucks, we got a pretty good night's sleep. The joys of camping in town. We had hoped to get going early, but it just didn't happen and we were on the go by 8:15 after a nice breakfast of mango and granola that we purchased at a mercado yesterday.

A short road walk to get us out of town and the rest of the morning was spent on trail running along the coast. There was much less deep sand on the trail than yesterday and we got to walk barefoot on the beach for awhile.

One stretch of trail was a Hobbit tunnel cut through a very thick manzanita and cane jungle. Very strange to be practically crawling to squeeze through the low, narrow passages. Even stranger was to catch up to two bicyclists struggling their way through and then still needing to walk their bikes in the deep sand once they got out.

Our beach walking included a couple of rope-assisted climbs back up to the plateau on the cliffs above which gave us a little challenge.

We're staying in a youth hostel in Almograve tonight, in a private room, since there are no campgrounds. You can't just wild camp in Portugal.

Since we reached town in the early afternoon and could not check in until 6pm, we spent a few hours on the local beach having lunch at a beach cafe/bar. We actually returned there for a light dinner and to watch the sunset at about 8pm after taking showers at the hostel.

We saw our Scottish friends again on the trail and then at lunch so they joined us and it was nice to chat a bit. There have been maybe a dozen or so people on the trail each day. Not nearly as many as the previous two trails.

A final note: Portugal is a big producer of cork. We walked by our first cork trees today! They strip the bark off the lower 6 feet or so of the trunk every few years and it grows back.

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September 7 - The hostel included a very nice breakfast so we started the day full and energized.

After a brief roadwalk above the ocean, the trail began. I saw two fishermen walking ahead of me to their fishing spot, so I guess this really is the Fisherman's Trail.

Today's walk offered many nice views of the sea from the cliffs.

We took a break near an old lighthouse and stopped for lunch in a restaurant by a tiny fishing port. We had clams and mushrooms.

On a less interesting section later in the day, we were overtaken by a man. He had on a Wisconsin baseball hat so Kelly mentioned it. Turns out he is Portuguese but has a friend who went to school in WI years ago and gave him the hat. We walked and chatted quite awhile. He told us about some of the plants and the general area

We met another wonderful Portuguese guy this evening in Zambujeira do Mar. After reaching our campground, we did the usual set up, shower, and rest, then think about dinner. The campground restaurant didn't look that good, so we walked the half mile back into town.

We found Cantino dos sabores restaurant with no customers yet. We decided to take a look. The man running the restaurant, Daniel, sat us outside and explained that they had many different cuts of pork tonight. I got the impression that a pig had probably just been butchered today. But, Kelly asked if he had fish and he offered to make a typical Portuguese meal called Bacalhau a bras which is cod and eggs. It was great! We had a Pastel de nata for dessert. Daniel said it is the best Portuguese dessert.

Our day ended with the hike in the dark back to our campground.

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September 8 - Can't really expect each day to be a thriller. Today was mostly just a day of hiking and camping. But, no rain!

We had a little breakfast sitting at the end of the road watching the ocean before starting our hike. That was a nice way to begin.

Much of the trail today was deep sand, overgrown Hobbit tunnels through thick brush, or dry country road walking. There was just a lot that wasn't much fun.

For a few very long sections, we battled our way through brush, hunching over and twisting around. A couple times, I had to actually crawl to get through.

At one point, we encountered a six foot high wire fence and the trail followed alongside it. On the other side of the fence, all vegetation had been grazed away by cattle or something. On our side, the manzanita grew right right up to the fence. We had to squeeze along. A few times, when there was an opening, we turned away from the fence hoping to find a parallel way but each time we ran into thick brush and had to turn back.

So, if you hike this trail just follow the fence on this part - or consider just skipping this part since there were few views for the amount of effort.

We took a lunch break on a bench overlooking a small port. An English couple stopped and we chatted with them about a half hour. They're hiking the opposite direction.

We had many views down to the ocean, some with beaches and others with crashing waves on rock faces. But, the trail stayed up on the cliff all day.

The day ended with a very long road walk to our campground by Odeceixe. Since it's far from town, we just showered, rest by the pool, and had a basic pizza for dinner at the campground restaurant. It was a nice, relaxing afternoon and evening.

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September 9 - We had a long road walk, a little bit sketchy in spots, before we reached the ocean this morning. Along the way, we stopped at a supermercado for fruit and a fig nut treat for breakfast.

Once we were on the trail by the ocean, we were on the typical cliffs looking down at the water. But, today there was very little of the sea to see because of thick fog rolling in. It was nice and cool with a great sound track of breaking waves, but few views.

We took a snack break on a bench on a cliff which probably had a great view. Later, we took a detour to scramble/hike down a steep rock slope to the beach where we explored a little. That was our one time today at sea level.

After a few miles along the cliffs on the usual deep sand trail, we turned inland and had about eight miles of gravel road walking. With the fog keeping the sun away it was a pleasant walk.

We saw lots of various small fruit trees like oranges, limes, apples, pears, and a few new ones that I couldn't recognize. We tried one small fruit and it tasted great but we're not sure what it was.

We stopped in a supermarcado in Rogil which was very nice and got sardines, crackers, plums, and Coke for lunch. We sat on a bench on the main street enjoying our meal before walking the last few miles to our campground for the night out on old backcountry roads.

In the open field section of trail after Rogil, there are no blue and green Fisherman's Trail markers. Instead the markers are white, red, and yellow but they follow the same path.

Along this part, we caught up to a solo Austrian hiker out on her first long walk. We enjoyed chatting with her until we reached our campsite. It looks like we might be staying in the same place as her tomorrow night, so we'll look for her.

Our campground is 2 miles before the next town, so we couldn't do any exploring. We tried the restaurant but it looked pretty dismal so we're finally cooking one of our own camp meals that I've been carrying since Sweden.

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September 10 - We had a 6 mile walk before reaching the coast this morning. Quite a bit of it was along a fast, sketchy paved road, but we did pass through a couple neighborhoods where we could see development going on. It also included a very steep, long climb up a hill and down the other side.

Once at the ocean, we stopped on a cliff above a large beach to have breakfast and watch surfing classes.

A bit farther along, we stopped again to watch a few fishermen trying their luck while perched on the very edge of a very high cliff. They caught nothing while we were there.

The fog let up some today so we could see the water but we were up high for the few miles along the coast. Much of the trail was the typical deep sand.

We did get to walk through the foundations of the Ribat of Arrifana which was pretty cool.

After the Ribat, we turned inland through a sparce forest, but still hiking through deep sand, and then across barren fields to the small village of Arrifana where we're staying in a hostel private room.

There's not much here, or for the next couple days, so we bought some food yesterday for our lunch tomorrow. We enjoyed a tasty dinner at the one restaurant around - cuttlefish stew, and clams in creamy rice.

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September 11 -

We hiked dirt roads out of town for quite a while and lots of cars passed us both ways. About a quarter mile after stopping to put on sunscreen, I noticed my glasses with clip on sunglasses were not hanging on my pocket. A quick, frantic search did not find them, so I hiked back the way we had come. I found them, but one car had found them first. Now, I have flat glasses with one lens, but the sunglasses still work. It's ok, because I needed to get an eye checkup anyway.

With all the traffic, we figured the road was leading to a great surfing spot. Turns out we were right. We got to a beach and watched surfers for a while and then climbed a very long hill back up to the plateau again.

We hiked along a very nice dirt road that was comfortable to walk on and it was in trees that we weren't sure what they were but they had long leaves and several thin trunks that came together at the bottom. They had been planted.

Then we walked through farmland for a while and got to a stop where we could get a snack and a Coke. It was a very pretty bed and breakfast place and we had tapas, some meat and cheese and bread and olives. Then we hiked on dirt roads again and hiked through a herd of cattle coming up the road being herded by their dogs but no people and we got petting close to the cows. We saw wind turbines in the distance.

This was a bright sunny day with pretty blue sky and a nice cool breeze blowing on us most of the day. It's been a very pleasant walk. More sand dunes again with the ocean off to our right but not super close to the cliffs. Almost every hiker we meet is from Germany.

About one and a half miles before Carrapateira, the trail drops down to a huge long Bordeira Beach that's very beautiful. This is a great spot to stop and enjoy the beach for a couple hours before reaching your destination. The trail from there to town goes to the south of the beach but we stayed on the beach and walked to the parking lot it was easier and nicer.

Our night will be in another very nice hostel after a dinner of presto pasta and pizza.

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